It’s a ripper!

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Are you sitting comfortably? Well, make sure you’ve got the Saxa handy.

I’ve waited a while to digest what we were told on Sunday during our historical cruise around Sydney Harbour.

The waters were choppy, the sky was blue and the facts were, it appeared, cold.

Recent historical events, like the WW2 Japanese mini-submarine attack on the harbour were related with clarity and precision.

Buildings were pointed out, along with impressive statistics about their cost and who was entitled to use them.

Credibility was built up to such an extent that by the time we reached Cockatoo Island we were oblivious to the fogs of legend swirling around the boat as our genial host told us a tale that blended horror, romance, adventure and tragedy.

I’ve looked into it and it’s codswallop. Nevertheless, it’s enjoyable enough codswallop to repeat, just so long as you know…

We had passed the shipyards on the western end of the island and were heading back toward the seaward part of the harbour when our guide pointed out some sandstone buildings on which barred windows could be seen.

Cockatoo Island, we were told, was Sydney’s Alcatraz in the late 19th century. Below the buildings, in the rock of the island itself there was a huge bricked up disc shape.

This was the mouth of a tunnel which the unfortunate inhabitants of the sandstone buildings had been forced to dig, all the time in manacles.

Spending much of their time exposed to the harshness of the elements, these wretches were supplied with little food and water.

Fortunately for them, they were befriended by aborigines who supplied extra rations.

Toot! Toot! (That’s my retrospective foghorn sounding. Ignore it. The story’s more fun this way).

One of the natives, a girl, gave one of the prisoners much more than mere tucker. They became lovers.

One night, she tethered a horse to the southern mainland shore facing the island, crossed the waters to her lover and helped him slip his manacles.

The island is in the Parramatta River, home to always-peckish nurse sharks, but the prisoner swam ashore, mounted the horse and rode off into the Northern Territories.

Unimpressed by this feat, the only successful escape from Cockatoo Island, the authorities sent riflemen after this man, whom the press dubbed Captain Moonlight.

The search party was guided by aboriginal trackers, so their quarry stood no chance.

When they caught up with him, Captain Moonlight was summarily shot in the head and buried where he dropped.

That’s the story, pretty well as narrated to us.

This morning I googled the good Captain and discovered that, while he led a gang of horse-thieving bushrangers, he didn’t have anything to do with Cockatoo Island. What’s more, he didn’t have a girlfriend; he had a boyfriend.

His friend, called Nesbitt, was shot as they were being captured and died with Captain Moonlight raining tears upon his breast.

Captain Moonlight went to the gallows in Sydney wearing a ring made from Nesbitt’s hair and pleading to buried beside him.

This request was of course ignored… until 1995 when Moonlight’s body was exhumed and reinterred beside Nesbitt’s grave.

Remember that I got the latter bit of “history” from the Internet and – fallible fool that I am – have been typing away from memory.

Thank goodness that I no longer have to pretend to deal in facts.

Ripping yarns are more entertaining when facts are spiced with imagination.

Until next time…

Signs of the times

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Back home, there are “To Let” notices, charity shops and the odd beauty salon. 

Here there are shopping centres filled with thriving businesses.

Back home, breaks in TV programmes contain trailers for other programmes. 

Here there are ad breaks.

Back home, the news is that things are worse than we thought.

Here the news is that the politicians are as slimy and backstabbing as everyone suspected.

That at least is universal, but it’s good to escape the gloom.

 

A feast for body and senses

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Australia Day… We headed for Sydney’s Darling Harbour, arriving after seven to find it already thronged with revellers.

It was very much a family occasion with children skipping excitedly along the pavements, waving flashing, twirly gizmos.

We were booked into Crinitis, an Italian restaurant overlooking the harbour.

There were eight of us and we opted for the fixed menu meal for seven.

Through the windows we could see a monster screen towering above the harbour and showing the ceremonials.

On the back wall there was a screening of Federer and Nadal battling to get into the Australian Open Tennis final.

We made the mistake of allowing the waitress to take away all our menus and none of us had closely studied what we had ordered.

Had we done so, we might have paced ourselves on the opening course of breads.

Helpings at Crinitis are generous.

The breads were followed by two dishes piled high with pastas and one with risotto.

The gusto with which we’d started now was just “Oh!”

When we’d eaten as much of the pasta as we could, our plates were replaced with fresh ones, accompanied by bowls of salad. Ominously, there were also three cylindrical racks ranged across the table.

It turned out that they were supports for a pizza which could have been used as a body board.

The portions we took barely made a dent in this monster.

It took three boxes to hold the remains for us to take home.

While we enjoyed the food, no matter how huge the portions, the “music” was another matter.

I don’t know if there was a melody track being piped off to some other sound system, but all we got was thumping bass – “boom, boom, boom” – blending none too well with what was coming from the speakers outside.

Conversations were brief, shouted exchanges along the lines of “Look! Fireworks!”… “I’m going out to the balcony!”… “Okay!”

The fireworks were indeed spectacular, rising to ever-mounting climaxes of exploding rocketry. In between, lasers drew a sinuous symphony of light patterns on the waters of the harbour to the accompaniment of portentously droning music.

Just when you thought it was all dying down – blam! – the fireworks blasted off again.

Eventually it did all come to an end in a welter of explosions it would have been ridiculous to attempt to top.

At home, the BBC occasionally gives us a tantalising glimpse of Sydney’s fireworks displays.

It was thrilling to be there in person and experience it.

It’s a jungle in the city

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Continuing our orientation, John took us to the lake at Parrammatta

To get there, we passed huge school grounds that spoke of wealth and privilege.Facing these grounds were imposing gated communities, which no doubt feed the schools’ intake. 

Then the road split and we followed the right hand branch past some much humbler dwellings before turning down a hill into some wilderness parkland.Below the road there was a lake fringed with gum trees. It was mirror calm, reflecting the vegetation on the other side. 

Birds flapped or floated across the lake and the air was filled with satisfyingly dramatic shrieks and calls. 

Leaving the less physically able behind, four of us set off down a path leading to one of the streams which fed the lake. In spite of the flagstones on the start of the path there was a strong impression of heading into wilderness… 

This illusion was slightly reduced by the steady hum of car tyres and the visibility through trees of major road signage.However, it did not take much stretch of the imagination to visualise the privations of early settlers who used this as a route to strike inland in search of food. 

When we got down to the stream, this short-sighted naturalist found himself again peering into undergrowth after being told there was a creature of interest present. 

Leaves, branches, twigs, pebbles, rocks and, oh yes, perfectly still, a lizard with a bright yellow stripe narrowing down its back like a calligraphic pen stroke. 

One of the younger naturalists present tossed a twig in its direction and it scurried out of our lives. 

Near the entrance to the park there was a visitor centre with playground, cafe and barbie tables.After we ate our sandwiches, Megan and Ellie decided to have a go on the swings. It had started raining.I searched the clouds for wind direction to divine how long this rain would last. 

It seemed like a passing shower at first and I told myself that I could see lightness in the direction from which the clouds were coming.But the rain grew heavier and heavier, not that that seemed to bother the girls who used the play equipment with gymnastic skill and vigour. 

At home in Ireland, we run for shelter when it rains. Megan and Ellie are made of sterner stuff. 

The rain, it turned out, was on for the day, becoming torrential for long periods. 

In the evening, we visited Hazel’s brother Joey and his wife Lynn and our nephew Jett for a barbecue. 

The non-stop downpour did not phase them in the slightest. The sun awning over the patio provided a measure of protection, although Joey needed to heave it upwards occasionally when the weight of water ballooned it alarmingly downward. 

The food was utterly delicious, cooked to perfection and accompanied by wonderful salads, most notably a watermelon and feta cheese combination. 

 A lovely evening ended with music, dancing and merriment as the would-be killjoy rain pattered impotently off the awning.

 

A rootle in the roots

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“Can you see them?”

“Er…”

It was a matter of scale.

I’d been invited to look for crabs amid the mangrove roots beside the boardwalk. Even though they were bright orange, I wasn’t spotting them and had to suppress a people-pleasing lie.

Then one of them hopped, and suddenly I could see that we were surrounded by thousands, mostly diving for the shelter of tiny holes in the mud.

They had reason to be shy. Twenty feet away, ibis were stalking about, nodding their heads briskly as they drove their wickedly curved beaks in search of prey.

So yesterday we settled into the joys of tourism.

We lunched in an oriental area of Sydney, Eastwood, at a sushi bar.

I’ve had caterer’s sushi before, but this was the first time I’d sat at a sushi bar, menu in one hand, conveyor belt in front of me.

The illustrations on the menu were small; the belt quite brisk. So I soon discarded the paperwork and took pot luck.

Pungent wasabi made a good insurance policy against poor choices and all in all it was an enjoyable experience.

That the neighbourhood was slightly run down and shabby was a plus. It reminded me of the shops of Belfast thirty or so years ago before the developers bulldozed in with their homogenised malls.

There were wonderful vegetable shops which are surely going to receive another visit before we leave.

After lunch we visited the Olympic Village area where we walked through the mangroves and also visited the vertigo-inducing Brickpit Ring Walk (photo above: Architizer.tumblr.com).

A mention is overdue of the wonderful hospitality we have been receiving from Hazel’s sister Allison, husband John and daughters Jessica, Megan and Ellie.

On Monday we were greeted at the airport by Allison and Hazel’s brother, Joey.

Allison garlanded us in Hawaiian-style leis, which drew grins and cries of “aloha” as we spent some time getting organised in the car park outside the airport.

That’s it for now. Fresh adventures beckon.

 

 

Mfl…

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We’ve arrived safely in Sydney, although not in one piece.

My brain appears to have been left in Abu Dhabi. Is what they mean by jet lag?

Quality control has rejected everything I’ve written since arriving.

I’ll try again later.

We’ve been banned from bringing…

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This afternoon, on the eve of our departure, we had an angelic visit from our voice of common sense.

So this time around, her firmest piece of advice was that we never looked our best in Cancun hats.

Also, after studying the “banned on flight” list from the airline, we’ve decided regretfully to leave the harpoon at home.

Looking good

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 It’s Thursday morning and two cases are packed.

There are just a couple of items left on the to-do list.

Yet there is a lurking tension.

If it keeps us on our toes, that’s no bad thing.

Breathe!

 

Divertimento in black and white

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Pausing from a busy morning’s play, the boss (aged 3) and I were peeping out the window overlooking Millbay Road.

There had been a party in the house opposite at the weekend and now, parked outside, there was a white van, dazzlingly brilliant in the sunlight, waiting to be loaded.

Bold black lettering on the side of the van left no doubt what it was waiting for. Its owners were suppliers of pianos… “new and pre-enjoyed”.

A pre-enjoyed piano? Why, it sounded almost indecent.

In fact, come to think of it, the “new” bit sounded a little suspect too.

Given that piano tuners must derive a measure of satisfaction from a job well done, how do we define the border between newness and pre-enjoyment?

In the event, when two men emerged from the house, they were trolleying an object so demurely swathed in protective blanketing that it was impossible to tell how extensively it had been pre-enjoyed.

Later, thinking about pianos and modesty, I looked up “Victorian piano legs” on Google.

There was lots of fancy carving, but no sign of prudish pantalettes.

Wikipedia informed me that it was a myth that Victorians wrapped cloth around the legs of their pianos to stop them inflaming passions.

They were more likely, it seems, to use cloth to disguise the cheapness of their furniture.

The piano myth was started by an author, Captain Marryat, in a short story poking fun at American prissiness.

It’s been quite some time since Captain Frederick Marryat (1792-1846)  topped the best-seller lists. His most successful book was Mr Midshipman Easy which I can recall seeing both at home and in school libraries, but never got round to reading.

Marryat had a distinguished naval career, on more than one occasion diving into the sea to rescue drowning shipmates.

He was the inventor of a type of lifeboat, plus a system of maritime flag signalling… and a myth about prudes and pianos.

Goat story

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It’s time for another to-do list. We have been making progress, but this is no time for complacency. Days are flowing by like an animated calendar in a corny old life story movie. 
And things are coming to an end… The goats milk experiment for one.
After reading that it’s a super food, much better for us than dairy, I’ve been giving it a try. This morning, I checked the use-by date on the carton top, as bitter experience has taught me, but to no avail.
The result of the experiment is that I now know that goats milk is much better than dairy… at going off. One ruined bowl of muesli later, I’ve had to make an extra cup of tea to rinse my mouth out.
Back to soya!

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